Helen Kirkum is a London-based artist whose work reimagines waste from the footwear industry, giving discarded materials a second life. Her craft transcends traditional sneaker design by blending experimental textures and shapes with a thoughtful approach, challenging us to reconsider our consumption habits.

Image Source Michael Harrison Rudd (Left), Highsnobiety (Right)

By repurposing fabrics and materials, she creates one-of-a-kind compositions that celebrate intentional reconstruction—turning waste into wearable art with purpose and vision.

Deconstructed, Helen Kirkum, Royal College of Art Archive, 2016

Helen Kirkum graduated from the highly honoured Royal College of Arts in London back in 2016. She collaborated with sneaker giant adidas soon after graduation, breaking into the world of sneakers and reimagining sustainability.

"Through my practice, I play with the texture and landscape that surrounds the foot. Studying how we respond and engage with footwear in our hyper-commercial reality, I love to explore unexpected footwear constructions, born from craft, experimentation and spontaneity." -Helen Kirkum, 2016.

Helen Kirkum Studio

Established in 2019, Helen Kirkum Studio has mastered creating unique footwear from all types of recycled pieces. In the Studio, leather pieces are collaged, and old shoelaces are woven into intricate handmade bags; turning post-consumer waste into desired collections.

The studio has created a range of products from recycled materials like accessories, handbags, and of course, her uniquely designed sneakers.

Image Source Helen Kirkum Studio

Helen Kirkum Studio is diving into bespoke and made-to-order models. The sneaker industry is particularly unsustainable; sneakers are made to be worn until discarded for minor damages, allowing the cycle of manufacturing animal leather and other fossil fuel-derived materials to continue.

The studio takes sneaker design and making into an art and a craft.

Recycled Materials at Helen Kirkum Studio

The creative process starts by harvesting used parts of all types of sneakers and making these into unique component additions for Helen Kirkum's design. As an artist, she collects laces, leather scraps, and other textile waste and reconceptualises the possible use of these materials in her Core collection and Palimpsest sneaker silhouette.

Image Source ASICS

Helen Kirkum has created multiple collections with large brands, always staying true to her core of redesigning and reusing waste materials. As an artist, she keeps the materials untreated, intentionally keeping visible wear marks like scuff marks, stains, and discoloration in her designs.

Helen Kirkum views this as a naturally distressed aesthetic that is authentic and visually shows us the past lives and wear of all the components and scraps used in Kirkum's designs. Kirkum believes in the bespoke, one-of-a-kind model, a sustainable approach to repurposing old shoes into your next favourite pair.

Artist Spotlight: Helen Kirkum

Kirkum’s distinctive patchwork designs have captured global attention, drawing admiration from both streetwear enthusiasts and high-fashion brands alike. Her ability to seamlessly blend deconstructed sneaker elements into bold, one-of-a-kind creations has led to collaborations with some of the biggest names in the fashion industry.

Helen Kirkum x adidas

Soon after graduation from the Royal College of Arts, Kirkum worked alongside adidas, designing the X_PLRBOOST running sneaker.

Through her innovative approach, she continues to bridge the gap between sustainability, craftsmanship, and contemporary style, solidifying her influence in both the sneaker culture and luxury fashion world. Image SourceThe Design Museum

Additionally, for the adidas 50-year celebration, Kirkum created three custom pairs of adidas Superstar models and re-envisioned them, her designs were later nominated for The Design Museum's Annual Beazley Design of the Year in 2020 under the fashion category.

'Crafts for Mind': Helen Kirkum x ASICS

Kirkum has become a pioneer in recycled fashion, collaborating with ASICS in 2022 with the exclusive redesign of 30 pairs of GEL-1090 models. With 'Crafts for Mind: Helen Kirkum x ASICS, the pairs are made from dead stock and post-consumer waste, making each pair unrepeatable as well as donating proceeds to charities like YoungMinds UK.

Image Source ASICS

Helen Kirkum x BIRKENSTOCK STUDIO

Helen Kirkum is showing no signs of slowing down, with her collaboration with BIRKENSTOCK in 2024 with the WALK WITH ME making Kirkum the first artist in residence at BIRKENSTOCK. The initiative aims to educate and provide the space for creativity and exploration of the possibilities of upcycling through curated workshops.

Paving the Way for Sustainable Fashion and Design

Helen Kirkum is part of the vanguard for sustainable fashion and design, with her work being celebrated at London Fashion Week and the sneaker industry for her decorated patchwork sneakers.

Image Source ASICS

Through her collaborations with major brands like adidas, ASICS, and BIRKENSTOCK, Kirkum continues to push the boundaries of sustainability in the fashion industry. Her commitment to preserving the history of materials while crafting one-of-a-kind pieces solidifies her role as a pioneer in ethical design.

As she expands her influence through new projects and partnerships, Helen Kirkum remains at the forefront of the movement toward a more conscious and creative future in fashion.